
Class JELi-Qia. 
Book_liBV/-<^ 

Copyright 1^° 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 






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A CAMP IN CONSOLATION VALLEY 



A GUIDE-BOOK 



TO THE 



LAKE LOUISE REGION 



INCLUDING — 



PARADISE VALLEY, VALLEY OF THE TEN PEAKS, 
AND NEIGHBORHOOD OF LAKE O'HARA 



WITH EIGHTEEN FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS 
FROM PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY THE AUTHOR 



WALTER DWIGHT WILCOX, F. R. G. S. 

Author of "The Rockies of Canada" 



COPYRIGHT 1909 BY 

WALTER DWIGHT WILCOX 






PRESS OF JCTDD & DETWEItER, INC. 
WASHINGTON, D. C. 



Two Cr,nh'% ^t^neived 
JUL 6 ^^^^ 

T COPY 'b/ 



PREFATORY NOTE. 



The purpose of this little guide-book is to help visitors to 
the Lake Louise region to spend their time as pleasantly as 
possible. For the hurried traveler, an outline is given of the 
most important trips. For those with unUmited time, a 
considerable number of excursions are described — sufficient 
to occupy the better part of a month. 

The area described embraces the immediate neighborhood 
of Lake Louise and the four adjoining valleys. This region 
is one of the most interesting parts of the Canadian Rockies, 
and is probably not excelled by any equal section in the 
world for the number and variety of its scenic attractions. 
In this part of the mountains, hardly ten miles square, are 
found twenty peaks, fourteen of which are over ten thousand 
feet and six are more than eleven thousand feet above sea- 
level. The supreme idea of grandeur in mountain forms, 
which is not dependent on height alone, is here realized in 
these precipitous cliffs, which rise from 3,000 to 6,000 feet 
above narrow, forested valleys. Glaciers two or three miles 
long, countless snow-fields, rushing torrents and waterfalls, 
rich forests, and park-hke expanses of Alpine flowers compel 
unbounded admiration in every part of this region, but in 
one respect especially this part of the Canadian Rockies has 
no rival, whatever may be the diversity of opinion as to its 
other charms, and that is in the beauty of its lakes. At 
least three of these — Lakes Louise, Moraine, and O'Hara — are 
easily without peers in the Canadian Rockies, while McAr- 
thur and Wenkchemna lakes help make up a galaxy of 
mountain tarns unequalled in any part of the world. 

The work is the result of many summers of climbing and 
scrambling in this the author's favorite part of the moun- 
tains. The altitudes are those of the Topographical Survey 
of Canada, supplemented in a few cases by the author's 



aneroid readings. The distances are calculations from the 
author's own rate of walking, and the times required by the 
various trips are obtained by adding one-fifth to same, :o 
as to give a fairer average for those not in the best of tra i- 
ing. No claim is laid to extrer le accuracy of detail, and 1 le 
author invites such suggestior and information as may t^n- 
hance the value of future ed ions. The illustrations have 
been selected with the idea o giving the best general idea, 
as well as to serve as a souveni. jf the more interesting views. 

W. D. W. 
Washington, D. C, July, 1909. 



Page Four 



PART I. 

LAKE LOUISE AND ITS IMMEDIATE VICINITY. 



The following trips are recommended for those having 
only a limited time at their disposal : 

First day (morning) . — Ascent to upper lakes, and, if pos- 
sible, to top of the Little Beehive (page 12). Afternoon. — 
Walk around Lake Louise to end, or as far up valley as the 
corduroy bridge (page 9). 

Second day. — Ascent to Saddleback, with view of Mount 
Temple and Paradise Valley (page 17). Afternoon.— Kow- 
boat around lake. 

Third day. — To Moraine Lake, in the valley of the Ten 
Peaks, and, if possible, side excursion to Consolation Valley 
(page 29). 

Fourth day. — Paradise Valley to end, returning by way 
of Giant Steps Falls (page 21) . 

For those spending considerable time the following trips 
are suggested: 1. To Lake O'Hara and Lake McArthur from 
Hector. 2. Over the Mitre Col and return by Paradise Val- 
ley. 3. To Lakes O'Hara and Hector or Field by way of 
Abbot Pass. 4. Ascent of Mount Victoria. 

Laggan, the railroad station for Lake Louise, is a small 
settlement in the Bow Valley 5,037 feet above sea-level, 36 
miles . northwest of Banff. It is a divisional point of the 
Canadian Pacific Railway, and here also the time changes 
from Mountain to Pacific, or vice versa. Near the station 
is a granite shaft erected to the memory of Sir James He*- 
tor, who, in connection with the Palliser Expedition, discov- 

Page five 



ered, in 1858, the Kicking Horse Pass, by which the rail- 
road crosses the highest range of the Rockies. The sur- 
rounding forests were destroyed by fire many years ago, but 
a vigorous growth of jack-pine is now rapidly covering the 
bare hillsides. Vehicles and ponies meet all trains to con- 
vey passengers to the chalet at Lake Louise. The distance by 
new road is about three miles, but the time required for the 
trip is nearly one hour, owing to the constant ascent, which 
amounts to a total of 633 feet. 

The Bow River, a swiftly rushing glacial stream, is crossed 
by an iron bridge. Near this is a small' spring of excellent 
water. The carriage road follows the Bow River a short dis- 
tance, and then makes a gentle ascent through pine forests, 
which soon open up and disclose the torrential outlet stream 
from Lake Louise, on the left. Following this, on the west 
bank, in constant and rather steep ascent, the road crosses 
the stream (one mile) by a log bridge, and a long detour is 
made through the woods in order to avoid the excessive 
grades of the old road. Those who prefer to walk, however, 
should follow the old road along banks of the stream to the 
chalet, which may be reached on foot in 45 minutes from the 
station. 

Excellent views of the mountains, especially of Mount 
Temple, are to be had from the new road as it winds through 
light forests. A sharp turn is made (1% miles), and at two 
miles the stream is again crossed and followed the remainder 
of the distance to the chalet. Not far from the chalet the 
electric-lighting plant is passed, and a few hundred yards 
above this there is a dam where the water is collected for 
power. The grade soon diminishes, and the noisy stream is 
hushed as it flows in a broad channel through heavy forests. 
Glimpses of snow-fields are caught amongst the tall and slen- 
der spruce trees, and the blue-green waters of Lake Louise 
are seen as the chalet is reached. 

*Lake Louise Chalet, delightfully situated at the north- 
east end of Lake Louise, has accommodations for 175 to 200 
guests. There are 120 rooms, of which 83 have baths con- 
necting. Though this hotel is located in the heart of the 
mountains and the surrounding region was an unexplored 

Page Six 



and almost unknown wilderness as late as 1890, the visitor 
may now enjoy such modern comforts as electric lights, 
steam heat, running water, and an excellent cuisine, amid 
homelike and restful surroundings. The original log chalet, 
built in 1890, burned down in 1892, and a small frame 
structure, capable of accommodating a dozen guests, was 
built in 1893. Additions were made from time to time to 
provide for the rapidly increasing number of visitors. In 
the summer of 1893 there were about 50 visitors to Lake 
Louise, and in 1908 there were more than 5,700. The orig- 
inal frame chalet is now incorporated in the general sitting- 
room and music-room. Large, open fireplaces, where pine 
and spruce logs burn brightly, temper the chill of evening 
and early morning and give a cheerful aspect to the public 
rooms. The verandas and large windows on the lake side of 
the building give unrivaled views. 

Rooms, American plan, $3.50 to $5.00; with bath, $4.50 
and upward. Conveyance between Laggan and chalet, 50 
cents each way; trunks, 75 cents for round trip; hand bag- 
gage free. Guides and ponies for excursions in the vicin- 
ity or for short camping trips and Swiss guides for moun- 
tain climbing may be arranged for at hotel office. Sleeping- 
car reservations, telegrams, and telephonic messages to Field 
and Banff, at office. 

** Lake Louise, one of the most beautiful lakes in the 
world, hardly known before 1890, when the first chalet was 
built, is now justly celebrated for an unusual combination of 
Alpine grandeur with beauty of forested slopes and richly- 
colored water. The lake is 5,670 feet above sea-level, 1^ 
miles in length by one-fourth mile in width, and opposite the 
rock slide is 230 feet deep. The lake was visited as early as 
1882 by Mr. T. E. Wilson, and again in 1886 by Dr. Ed- 
wards, a British scientist, who named it after his eldest 
daughter. The earliest available description of this spot is 
given in "Among the Selkirk Glaciers," by Dr. Green, who 
visited the lake in 1888. 

Mount Victoria (11,355 feet), the most conspicuous feat- 
ure of the view, is a lofty wall of rock running at 
right angles to the line of vision, closing in the valley and 

Page Seven 



forming a part of the continental divide between the waters 
that flow into the Atlantic and those that drain into the 
Pacific. Its base is a precipice about 1,500 feet high, while 
its upper half is almost completely covered with snow and 
glaciers from 200 to 250 feet thick, where they are crowded 
over the upper part of the precipice. In hot weather the 
thunder of avalanches is frequently heard, as immense 
masses of ice break off and fall to the glacier below. As 
the sound requires about 20 seconds to reach the chalet, these 
avalanches are usually ended before the attention is called to 
them. To the left, and somewhat nearer, a part of the 
helmet-shaped Mount Lefroy is visible. 

On the right may be seen, in relief against the sky, the 
two rocky and nearly bare summits of Mount Whyte and 
Mount Niblock. Still farther to the right is the cone-shaped 
Mount Saint Piran, and to the left of this, and much lower, 
is the dome of rock called the Beehive. To the left of the 
lake the imposing precipices of Mount Fairview rise in an 
impressive wall of rock, at the base of which rests a vast 
slide of rock partially filling the lake. It represents the 
erosive action of past ages on the upper cliffs of the moun- 
tain. Visitors should be cautious in approaching this and 
similar slopes on account of the frequent rock-falls. 

It is very difficult, at first sight, even for those experienced 
among mountains, to appreciate the true scale and perspec- 
tive of such a scene. To get a better idea, the visitor should 
gradually accustom himself to the following distances: It 
is one mile and a quarter to the end of the lake, and about 
two miles in a straight line to the nearest moraine debris, 
where a stream is seen beyond the water. Above this the 
glacier extends two miles farther to the lowermost cliffs of 
Mount Victoria, to reach which from the chalet would re- 
quire about two hours' hard walking. The summit of Mount 
Victoria is about five miles distant in a straight line, and 
rises more than a mile in vertical height above the lake. 

The nearly vertical lower cliffs of Mount Fairview on the 
left rises between 1,700 and 1,800 feet above the lake. If 
the lake were deep enough to submerge three such cliffs, 
piled one on top of the other, the bottom would be several 

Page Eight 



hundred feet above sea-level. The top of this cliff is about 
on a level with the ice of the Victoria glacier as seen at the 
base of Mount Victoria. Another such cliff piled on top 
of the first would reach the top of the hanging glacier, and 
still a third cliff piled on top of the other two and placed in 
front of Mount Victoria would leave fully 600 feet of the lat- 
ter's snowy crest towering above. The Beehive, on the right, 
is about the same height as this cliff, while Mounts Whyte 
and Niblock, though rising over 4,000 feet above the lake, 
are one-third of a mile lower than Mount Victoria. In rainy 
weather the level of the clouds makes these facts strikingly 
apparent. 

**Excursion to end of lake (by boat, 20 minutes ; on foot, 
25-30 minutes) is highly recommended, both by boat and 
on foot, as one of the most satisfactory of the easier trips 
at Lake Louise. The trail commences on your right, or 
north shore of the lake, near the boat-house, and follows 
the water closely throughout. The view changes constantly 
and is highly interesting. There is a rustic pavilion (about 
1/4 mile) commanding a fine view, and shortly beyond this 
a small rivulet enters the lake, which bursts out of the ground 
in a beautiful spring about 80 feet above. The snowy dome 
of Mount Lefroy, the imposing peak of Mount Aberdeen, 
and the nearer spires and minarets of a wall-like spur from 
Mount Fairview appear as you progress. Near the lake end 
there is a very good view of Mount Lefroy, seen through the 
constricted and canyon-like valley, but even this imposing 
mountain cannot arouse greater admiration than the frown- 
ing cliffs that now appear directly ahead. Excessively steep, 
and even perpendicular in places, for several hundred feet 
of vertical height, these cliffs show an unusual variety of 
color, partly due to the several kinds of stone of which they 
are composed and to the iron and other minerals with which 
the dripping water has stained the rock walls in vertical 
bands. Crossing an open slide, decorated in midsummer by 
false forget-me-nots and other Alpine plants, the trail leads 
up to the base of the cliffs. Here, in the partial gloom of the 
forest, the cliffs above can be more thoroughly studied. The 
narrow shelves of rock, three or four hundred feet above, 

Page Nine 



hardly seem adequate support for the clinging spruces which 
are now seen directly overhead. Descending through a mas- 
sive pile of rocks, which have fallen in past ages from the 
cliffs, the trail reaches a flat meadow at the lake end (1% 
miles) , filled with cotton grass and sedges. This nearly level 
meadow, extending for nearly a quarter mile up the valley, 
represents the former lake bed, now filled in with mud 
and gravel from the glacier. In hot weather the discolored 
stream may be seen extending a long way into the lake. 

The Victoria Glacier and cliffs of Mount Victoria. — From 
end of lake the trip may be extended (20 minutes) over a 
good trail to a footbridge, near end of glacier, or (1% hours) 
over more difiicult trail to edge of the middle glacier and 
cliffs of Mount Victoria. The trail, crossing the ramifying 
branches of the inlet stream, now becomes faint until in a 
few hundred yards it enters a deep forest on the north side 
of a brawling torrent and ascends rapidly in steep pitches, 
crossing open slides filled with cow-parsnip and false helle- 
bore, to reach the lowermost of the ancient bear-den mo- 
raines, one of which is crossed by a rustic footbridge (2^ 
miles from chalet). After crossing this bridge the trail 
winds amongst the rocks and continues across a gravel wash 
to a point near end of the glacier, where the torrential stream 
is hemmed in by a low, rocky cliff. To avoid this the trail 
turns to the right and seeks an outlet onto the well-defined 
moraine of the glacier. From this point on the trail becomes 
fainter, but there is no difficulty in following a fairly good 
route over these moraine ridges for about three-fourths of a 
mile farther, when the walking becomes much easier and 
pleasanter to (5 miles) base of Mount Victoria. 

The Victoria Glacier, three miles long by one-half mile 
wide, can be explored from this part of the valley. A Swiss 
guide should be employed to point out the interesting sights, 
such as glacial tables, where the great boulders are seen sup- 
ported on pillars of ice, glacial streams, the curious surface 
lakelets, mouhns, crevasses, etc. The trip over the ice should 
be extended to the base of the cliffs of Mount Lefroy (well 
worth seeing at close range) and the base of Abbot Pass, 
formerly known as the Death Trap. 

Page Ten 




LAKE LOUISE AND MOUNT LEFROY 



The Lefroy Glacier is a branch of the Victoria Glacier, 
lying between Mounts Lefroy and Aberdeen, and is over a 
mile long by nearly half a mile wide. It is hemmed in by 
the Mitre Mountain at its upper end, and by the precipices 
of Mount Lefroy, which here rise in an unbroken wall about 
2,500 feet above the ice. If the weather is warm the visitor 
may be rewarded by seeing one of the inspiring avalanches 
that descend either from the hanging glaciers of this moun- 
tain or from those of Mount Victoria. 

Dr. Scherzer gives the following information relative to 
these glaciers: The Victoria Glacier originates at Abbot's 
Pass, flows due north for a mile between the precipitous walls 
of Mounts Victoria and Lefroy, makes an abrupt turn to 
the northeast, and pursues a straight course for another two 
miles before wasting away in the Lake Louise Valley. The 
lower 1% miles present a remarkably even surface, so that 
it may be ascended by the most inexperienced. The thick- 
ness of the ice opposite the Lefroy tributary is probably from 
500 to 600 feet. The calculated annual flow of ice down the 
valley ranges from a few inches near the edges of the glacier 
up to about 66 feet near the center of the stream. According 
to measurements carried on by the Messrs. Vaux, and later 
by Dr. Scherzer, the glacier retreated an average of 14% feet 
yearly from 1899 to 1905. 

*The Mitre Col (8,500 feet), lying between Mount Aber- 
deen and the Mitre, may be ascended (guides advisable) by 
way of the Lefroy Glacier and descent made into Paradise 
Valley, passing the Giant Steps Falls and returning by trail 
to chalet. This all-day trip, wdth its glacier and snow work, 
gives a great variety of climbing and affords a constant suc- 
cession of inspiring and beautiful views. The Mitre is as- 
cended by way of this pass, but is a cliff-climbing problem 
of considerable difficulty only hitherto solved by a very few 
parties. 

**The ascent of Mount Victoria (11,355 feet), recom- 
mended as the most interesting of the accessible Alpine peaks 
near Lake Louise, is made by way of Abbot Pass. This is a 
high col or snow pass (9,588 feet) between Mount Victoria 
and Mount Lefroy, named for Philip S. Abbot, who lost his 

Page Eleven 



life here in 1896 while attempting the ascent of Mount Le- 
froy. (See Appalachia, Vol. VIII, No. 2.) The rope is 
usually put on shortly after rounding the rock buttress of 
Mount Lefroy, from which point the snow-covered glacier 
slopes lead up steeply into a narrow gorge hemmed in by the 
precipices and hanging glaciers of Mount Victoria. Danger 
of avalanches in this particular part suggested the original 
name of the "Death Trap," still applied locally to the lower 
part of Abbot Pass. From the summit of this pass a re- 
markable view is unfolded on both sides, but more particu- 
larly towards the south, where Mount Biddle and other lofty 
and sharp peaks tower above a sea of snow and rocks, mak- 
ing an awesome but inspiring panorama. The descent to 
Lake O'Hara by way of Lake Oesa is steep in upper part, but 
soon becomes less difficult. The ascent of Mount Victoria is 
interesting and varied from the summit of Abbot Pass. A 
rather steep rock buttress is climbed just above the pass lead- 
ing out to a rocky arete. This is now followed either on the 
rocks or the crest of a snow ridge to the summit, which, how- 
ever, lying a mile or more in a straight line to the north, is 
only reached after several hours' work. The difficulty of 
this ascent along this high, exposed ridge depends, of course, 
largely on weather conditions, and the Swiss guides will be 
able to advise fully in regard to same. The variety of 
work required and the constantly interesting panorama make 
Mount Victoria one of the most advisable climbs, especially 
as the entire ascent may be made with a comfortable hotel 
as a base. The north arete of Mount Victoria is defended 
by gendarmes and vertical precipices, and the ascent has not 
been made as yet from this side. 

*3Iirror Lake and Lake Agnes. — (To Mirror Lake, 30 
minutes ; to Lake Agnes, 45 minutes. Horses may be taken 
nearly to Lake Agnes, the higher of the two lakes, and last 
part made on foot.) This trip, involving a climb of 1,000 
feet to Mirror Lake and 1,200 feet to Lake Agnes, is very 
interesting and gives a good general idea of the surrounding 
mountains. 

The trail commences north of the chalet, a little to the 
right of the trail round the lake, and ascends in sharp grade. 

Page Twelve 



almost without interruption for first half mile, through a 
light forest of spruce and pine. The shrubby bushes are 
mostly mountain rhododendron, flowering throughout July 
and August, the bushes at higher altitudes being correspond- 
ingly later. The trail passes a reservoir for the chalet water 
supply, and at about 600 feet elevation turns to the left in a 
nearly level traverse, and is thereafter of much easier grade. 
The hardest and least interesting part of the climb is over at 
this point. Gradually ascending, the trail enters a heavier 
forest, and winding amongst some large moss-covered stones, 
divides, the right-hand trail ascending sharply to come down 
on Lake Agnes from above, the left-hand branch continuing 
in easier grade to Mirror Lake, and thence to Lake Agnes 
from below. Either route may be taken, but the left-hand 
trail is advised, as it is easier and the scenery is revealed in a 
more interesting manner. In a short distance from the 
division of the trail Mirror Lake, a round pool 100 yards 
across, is seen on the right, fed by the waters of Lake Agnes, 
and seeking an underground outlet to Lake Louise. From 
its secluded position in the forest and its small size, the water 
is rarely disturbed by the breezes, and hence its surface 
usually reflects the surrounding cliffs and trees in a mirror- 
like surface. A rounded dome of rock called the Beehive, 
from its peculiar shape, is the most striking feature from the 
shores of Mirror Lake. The summit of this is about 750 
feet above the lake and its upper cliffs are nearly perpen- 
dicular. 

The trail continues to the left of the lake and ascends 
sharply for a short distance to an opening amongst the trees, 
whence a fine view may be obtained of the snowy crest of 
Mount Aberdeen to the south. The Lyall's larch, a tree re- 
sembling the tamarack, is now seen on all sides, and is an 
indication of the increasing altitude. The eastern cliffs of 
the Beehive and the broken rocks which have fallen from 
them in past ages are imposing from this point. As the trail 
turns to the right it begins to skirt the base of the Beehive, 
showing Mirror Lake below and giving a very extensive view 
across the Bow Valley and the mountains of the Sawback 
Range to the east The view rapidly increases in interest 

Page Thirteen 



as the trail ascends in sharp zigzags, allowing a glimpse of 
the outlet stream from Lake Agnes, which falls in a pretty 
cascade over rock ledges to the right, and finally reaches a 
steep flight of steps, ascending which the visitor stands upon 
the heath-lined shore of — 

Lake Agnes. — This lake, about one-fourth of a mile long, 
is 6,875 feet above sea-level, or almost exactly 1,200 feet 
above Lake Louise. It was named for Agnes Knox, who 
visited it September 15, 1890, the first woman to reach the 
lake, which must have been a very trying ordeal through the 
trailless forests. The lake occupies the foot of a rather bar- 
ren, cirque-like valley between the Beehive and Mount Saint 
Piran, and overhung by the cliffs of Mount Whyte and 
Mount Niblock. The north exposure and great altitude of 
this little lake cause the snows of winter to linger round 
these barren shores till midsummer, and the winter coat of 
ice sometimes does not melt away till the first week in July. 
Near the outlet stream is a rustic cabin erected as a shelter 
against sudden storms. 

From near the cabin the trail turns to the north, and, 
ascending slightly, crosses the face of a steep, rocky slope, 
whence, amongst the clinging trees, very inspiring views 
may be had of the cliffs of the Beehive and distant moun- 
tains. Traversing a bare slope, whence the snowy crest of 
Mount Lefroy appears above the Beehive, the trail now de- 
scends in sharp zigzags amongst open larch groves to join the 
trail near Mirror Lake, 

Many variations and extensions of this excursion may be 
made by those desirous of getting a further insight into the 
truly remarkable scenery to be enjoyed from near-by points, 
of which the following, to the summit of the Little Beehive, 
is strongly recommended. 

From the highest part of the trail, as it crosses the bare 
slope mentioned a few lines above, may be seen a line of 
cliffs to the north, about one-fourth of a mile distant and 
a few hundred feet higher, towards which an easy route 
may be selected over the somewhat rocky and heath-covered 
slope, gradually ascending so as to come out above the cliffs. 
A grove of larches is entered and a shght descent made, only 

Page Fourteen 




MOUNTS ABERDEEN AND LEFROY FROM THE LITTLE BEEHIVE 



to rise again in another hundred yards. Here it is advisable 
to keep near the edge of the cliffs, so as to get a better view of 
the scenery, which increases in interest till the rolling, larch- 
crowned summit of the Little Beehive is reached. From the 
edge of this cliff there is a — 

** Magnificent view of the snowy summits of Mounts Vic- 
toria, Lefroy, and Aberdeen, and even distant Hungabee, in 
Paradise Valley, now looming up in inspiring grandeur 
across the deep, forested valley of Lake Louise, the banded 
cliffs of the Beehive and the sparkling Mirror Lake at its 
base, while farther to the left is the giant dome of Mount 
Temple and Mount Fairview. To the east and north lies 
the open sweep of the Bow Valley, showing the mountains 
from near Banff around to the north, where may be seen 
(by walking a hundred yards to the other side of the ridge 
top) the Pipestone Valley, Mounts Molar and Hector, the 
upper Bow Valley and Hector Lake, with the distant and 
snowy peaks near the source of the Bow River. On a bright 
day it is advisable to take luncheon in this spot and spend 
several hours enjoying this almost unrivalled panorama. 
To those who have been stimulated by this scene to make 
further efforts the ascent is recommended of — 

Mount Saint Piran (8,681 feet, named for town in Corn- 
wall, birthplace of W. J. Astley, the first manager of the 
Lake Louise chalet) . The mountain seems deceptively near, 
but as a matter of fact the top of the Little Beehive is only 
a little more than half the height from Lake Louise to the 
summit of Saint Piran. There is no difficulty, however, for 
vigorous walkers of either sex, provided with nailed shoes, in 
reaching the rocky, nearly barren summit (40 to 50 min- 
utes) from the Little Beehive. Route is obvious from below. 

* The vieiu from summit is magnificent, being an exten- 
sion of that from the Little Beehive, and includes, besides, a 
glimpse of the deep gorge or short valley north of Mount 
Niblock, with a small lake far below. The altitude here is 
almost exactly 3,000 feet above Lake Louise, and slightly 
more than half the height of Mount Victoria above same. 
This level also very nearly marks the extreme upper hmit 
of vegetation. A few species of hardy Alpine plants, mostly 

Page Fifteen 



composites, are visited on bright days by rare kinds of but- 
terflies and insects, only found elsewhere in the Arctic re- 
gions. The descent may be varied by climbers of a little 
experience by following the south slopes in a direction 
towards Mount Niblock and coming down the Alpine Valley, 
which ends at Lake Agnes. 

The Beehive (7,430 feet) may be ascended by skirting 
Lake Agnes on the left or south side, using caution amongst 
the unbalanced and somewhat treacherous rocks along the 
shore, until a grassy and wooded slope is reached near the 
end of the lake, when the very steep but safe (shoes should 
be hob-nail'ed) ascent is made, 555 feet, to the pleasant, 
larch-covered and nearly flat summit. From this point — 

* The view of Mount Lefroy and the upper part of the 
Lake Louise Valley is magnificent and awe-inspiring. The 
visitor should cautiously approach the nearly vertical clifiFs 
on the east and north sides to obtain an idea of their height 
and steepness. From the flat top of the Beehive the trip 
may be extended in a very interesting climb along the lower 
ledges of Mount Whyte, which may be traversed in a direc- 
tion towards Mount Victoria on a nearly level route, much 
facilitated by trails made by the wild goats. The views are 
interesting, and divide the attention with the cliffs on the 
right and the beautiful Alpine flowers which grow amongst 
these high ledges. The descent may be made directly to the 
Lake Louise Valley, but this is a rough scramble at best. 
The route should be studied out in order to avoid, as far as 
possible, the scrubby brush and ledges which are the only 
difficulties. 

The Devil's Thumb (8,065 feet), a rocky cliff above the 
Beehive, may be ascended easily from the above described 
ledges or directly from the lower valley, but the route should 
be chosen in advance, as it is possible to lose the bearings 
when actually on the mountain side. 

* The view is similar to that from the Beehive, but the 
awe-inspiring cliffs on the Lake Agnes side are the most 
interesting feature. 

Ascent of pass between Mount Saint Piran and Mount 
Niblock via Lake Agnes, and descent of the next valley to 

Page Sixteen 



Temple 



.\'o. 6 No. 7 Deltaform Neptuak Wliyte Lefroy 



Abbot Pass Biddle 




the north, and return by Hector trail to the chalet. This 
rather rough trip, requiring 4 to 5 hours, is recommended 
only to those spending a long time at Lake Louise. The 
ascent to Lake Agnes is made in the usual way, and the lake 
shore is skirted over the broken stones and boulders on north 
side of lake. The general trend of the valley is followed 
with ease, turning gradually to the right, and an ascent made 
towards the lowest part of the depression between Mounts 
Niblock and Saint Piran. The snow patch on north side of 
the pass, somewhat steep in upper part, must be negotiated 
with care when frozen hard, after which there is no difficulty 
in the descent of the valley to a small lake (5,900 feet), 150 
yards across, overhung by the gloomy precipices of Mount 
Niblock to the north, which latter rise nearly 4,000 feet 
above this rarely visited and lonely tarn. The view is im- 
pressive but forbidding. The descent of the outlet stream, 
which soon becomes a succession of cascades and pretty falls 
through heavy timber, is trying and rough. The trail is 
found at length at a point about two miles from the chalet. 
The great number of intersecting trails and old roads of the 
last mile are confusing, but by taking every turn to the right 
the chalet may be reached without loss of time. If this ex- 
cursion is reversed, the services of some one familiar with 
the trail should be secured to accompany the party for the 
first mile or so, and the location of the upper valley contain- 
ing the lake should be clearly in mind in order to avoid 
mistakes and possible failure. 

The Saddleback, an Alpine meadow about 1,800 feet above 
Lake Louise, lying south of Fairview Mountain, from 
which there may be obtained a magnificent view of Mount 
Temple and Paradise Valley, may be reached in an hour 
from the chalet, and is probably the finest of all the near-by 
excursions. 

The trail starts from the east end of the chalet, and, cross- 
ing the outlet stream by a corduroy bridge, whence a fine 
view of the lake is obtained, plunges at once into a deep and 
mossy forest, and begins a rapid ascent of the lower slopes of 
Fairview Mountain. The trail divides (6 minutes), the one 
on the left being the main trail to Paradise Valley, the Val- 

Page Seventeen 



ley of the Ten Pealcs, and Moraine Lake. The trail to the 
right is followed, which, ascending rapidly, eventually turns 
to the left and crosses the open track of a former snow-slide 
(18 minutes; about one-third of the distance to the Saddle- 
back) , whence a first view is obtained of the open Bow Val- 
ley and the distant mountains of the Pipestone and upper 
Bow Valleys. A much nearer view is also obtained of Fair- 
view Mountain, the cliffs of which now loom above on the 
southwest. The trail ascends in very sharp pitches and fre- 
quent zigzags through spruce and larch groves. Upon reach- 
ing an open flank of the mountain (40 minutes) there is a 
view of the top of the Saddleback lying to the south, appear- 
ing deceptively near, this point being only two-thirds of the 
way from the chalet to the Saddleback. The enlarging view 
and beautiful Alpine flowers are a partial compensation for 
the somewhat arduous final part of the cUmb. The trail, 
after a long traverse, makes the final ascent in several sharp 
zigzags through a grove of fine larches. At the second turn- 
ing the snowy crest of Mount Temple appears (53 minutes), 
rising above the green slopes of the meadow, brilliantly white 
and inspiringly beautiful in clear weather. As the slope 
falls away the trail becomes indistinct in the grass and heaths 
which here make an Alpine meadow, typical of the higher 
Canadian Rockies. The visitor is very likely to see one or 
more marmots or sifHeurs and hear their piercing whistles 
while approaching this beautiful spot, and with care and pa- 
tience in arousing their curiosity they may be approached 
quite closely and photographed. There is a rare chance also 
of seeing a herd of Rocky Mountain goats, either on the 
south flanks of Fairview Mountain or near the base of Mount 
Sheol, as you look into Paradise Valley. Somewhat above 
the lowest part of the pass there is a log cabin (60 minutes), 
placed here as a shelter in time of storm. Following a faintly 
marked trail from near the cabin in the direction of Mount 
Temple, and descending about 50 feet through the larch 
trees, a small cliff is reached where there may be obtained an 
**ExceUent view of Mount Temple and Paradise Valley. 
This inspiring view, of its kind probably not excelled on this 
continent, comprises the massive glacier-crowned Mount 

Page Eighteen 




MOUNT TEMPLE FROM THE SADDLEBACK 



Temple (11,626 feet), one of the highest peaks of the Cana- 
dian Kockies, rising 6,000 feet in almost vertical precipices 
out of the green, forest-clad Paradise Valley. At the base 
of the mountain is Lake Annette, a sparkling pool, clear and 
green as an emerald. The milky, glacial torrent, descending 
from the ice fields at the valley end, appears like a silver 
thread winding amongst the forest trees 2,000 feet below. 
The dark and frowning precipices of Mount Sheol hem in 
the valley and shut off the view on the right. 

Saddle Mountain, a rocky summit lying to the east, may 
be reached in 20 minutes from this point without difficulty, 
and is recommended as giving a good view of Pinnacle 
Mountain, the Bow Valley towards Banff, and the remark- 
able chffs of the mountain itself. The upper or highest part 
of the ridge is selected as a route, and the only part requiring 
caution is amongst the large, loose stones near the summit. 
The climber should endeavor to get a view down the cliffs 
on the east side of this mountain, approaching the verge of 
the vertical precipices with care. 

Fairview Mountain, which from the Saddleback resembles 
a conical pile of debris, may be ascended in one hour from 
this point. A trail commences near the cabin and winds up 
the southeast face of the mountain, but the visitor may select 
almost any route on this side of the mountain over as far 
as the skyline on the right. This climb, though somewhat 
monotonous, is entirely free from any difficulties. 

*The view from the summit (9,001 feet) is very good, 
especially of Mounts Victoria, Aberdeen, and Temple. The 
panorama on the other sides comprises an immense sweep 
of the Bow and Pipestone valleys. 

A somewhat longer, though very interesting, walk may be 
had by returning to chalet by way of Paradise Valley. The 
descent is made from the viewpoint near the cabin (a rather 
rough scramble) to reach the trail in Paradise Valley (30 
to 40 minutes), near the base of Saddle Mountain, from 
which point to the chalet will require about 1% hours. 



Page Nineteen 



PART II. 

PARADISE VALLEY. 



Paradise Valley, so named from its unusual beauty, is the 
first valley to the east of Lake Louise. It is about six miles 
long by a mile or more in width, and, running northeast, 
opens into the Bow Valley. About 5,900 feet in altitude at 
its opening, the level of the valley floor gradually ascends 
to over 7,000 feet at moraine of the Horseshoe Glacier. 
Hemmed in by precipitous mountains, three of which are 
over 11,000 feet high, namely, Mounts Temple, Hungabee, 
and Lefroy, adorned with rich, primeval forests, waterfalls, 
glaciers, and other natural attractions, this easily accessible 
valley is well worthy of a visit. The upper part, owing to its 
altitude and north exposure, is usually covered with snow 
till the middle of July, and, if possible, a visit later in the 
season is advisable. 

The lower end of the valley is reached by trail (on foot 
or horseback) in less than one hour from the chalet. The 
trail (excellent for the first 3 miles) crosses bridge at outlet 
of Lake Louise, and, ascending through deep forests, divides 
(6 minutes — 175 feet above Lake Louise), the right-hand 
trail ascending to the Saddleback. The left branch, gradu- 
ally ascending, reaches (25 minutes) the path of a snow- 
slide from the Saddleback, which it follows in a very steep 
ascent till it attains a height of 375 feet above Lake Louise. 
From here on trail gradually descends and (55 minutes — 
about 3 miles) reaches point where Paradise Valley trail 
branches off to the right or south. The approach to junction 
of this trail may be recognized by a sharp turn where trail 
crosses a shallow, ravine-hke depression 200 yards before 
Paradise Valley trail is reached. About one-fourth mile iur- 

Page Twenty-one 



ther on, the main trail, continuing east, crosses the Paradise 
Valley stream by a corduroy bridge to reach the valley of 
the Ten Peaks. 

An alternative route thus far is by carriage road to the 
Paradise Valley stream. Near the bridge over this a steep 
trail commences and ascends along west bank of stream one- 
fourth mile to upper trail. From here follow main trail back 
one-fourth mile to junction with Paradise Valley trail. 

The Paradise Valley trail, from point of junction with 
main trail, leads southward through heavy forests, and (4 
minutes) allows the first view of the triangular peak of 
Mount Hungabee at head of the valley. At length the nearly 
level trail, skirting the swamps at the valley entrance, be- 
comes rough (4 miles from chalet) as it crosses rock slides 
from Saddle Mountain on the right. The scenery now ap- 
proaches a cliiniax of grandeur when, after traversing some 
virgin forests of spruce and crossing a small, mossy stream 
(5 miles) that descends from the valley between Mount 
Sheol and Fairview Mountain, the sound of the now rapid 
creek is heard and openings in the forest permit views of the 
surrounding mountains. To the north is Saddle Mountain 
and the conical pile of Fairview Mountain. Above long 
slopes of grass, the imposing cliffs of Mount Sheol rise on 
the right, richly colored red and yellow, and beautified by 
narrow ledges with clinging trees. To the south is Mount 
Temple, crowned with a glacier of matchless purity and 
whiteness. The trail, following the Paradise stream closely 
for some distance, affords excellent views of the cliffs of 
Mount Temple, which here rise more than a mile in vertical 
height above the valley. The actual summit is nearly 6,000 
feet above the trail, and the wall of ice above the cliff is from 
200 to 300 feet thick. Crossing many openings in the for- 
est made by snow-slides, the visitor arrives (2 hours 20 
minutes) at the 1907 camp of the Alpine Club of Canada. 
The trail crosses stream (bridge), and after half a mile re- 
crosses (footbridge). 

The two streams making the Paradise Valley creek here 
unite, one coming from meadows in the extreme north- 

Page Twenty-two 



western side of the valley and descending in a fine cascade 
called the Giant Steps Falls (one-half mile above) , and the 
other from similar meadows on the other side of the valley. 
Trail now rapidly ascends a ridge between the two streams, 
through spruce forests, allowing a fine view of rapids on the 
left until, after a sharp ascent, open meadows and larch 
groves diversify the landscape. The scenery here approaches 
a second climax of beauty, and throughout the next mile 
there is a constant succession of excellent views in every 
direction. The trail becomes faint in places as it crosses the 
open meadows on west side of stream, some distance above it, 
and finally ends near the glacial moraine in the very center 
of the valley. 

The open, upper part of Paradise Valley, during the 
months of July and August, is a veritable Alpine flower 
garden of great beauty. The rolling ridges, crowned with 
larches, are masses of color — red, yellow, white, and purple — 
when the painted cups, arnicas, and asters are at the height 
of their glory. The two swampy meadows on either side of 
the central ridge which divides the upper valley are filled 
with equisetums and masses of white cotton grass. On every 
side are mountains of varied form, making a great encircling 
amphitheater or cul de sac, with a narrow opening down the 
valley as the only apparent outlet. Taking up the peaks in 
detail, the triangular rock pyramid at end of valley is Mount 
Hungabee (11,447 feet). On the right is a lesser peak and 
the long wall of Mount Lefroy forming an imposing preci- 
pice. Separated by a glacier is the difficult Mitre Mountain, 
showing two peaks from this point of view. On the other 
side of the Mitre Pass, to the north, is a high spur of Mount 
Aberdeen, beyond which the lower slopes of Mount Aberdeen 
and Mount Sheol are seen extending down the valley. Start- 
ing once more with Mount Hungabee, there are seen on the 
left three lesser peaks, the first of which is a part of the same 
ridge. Between the rounded dome to the south and the 
easily recognized Eiffel Peak, with its cleft, tooth-like sum- 
mit, is the AVastach Pass. To the left of Eiffel Peak is the 
remarkable Pinnacle Mountain, which has baffled all at- 

Fag€ Twenty-three 



tempts to climb it, separated by the Sentinel Pass from 
Mount Temple, now showing a remarkable resemblance to 
Mount Stephen at Field. 

Excursions in upper part of Paradise Valley. — There are 
three excursions to be made from this part of the valley, one 
at least being recommended as an interesting enlargement 
of the usual visit. Taking them up in order of their advis- 
ability, they are: 

1. To Giant Steps Falls, a very beautiful trip, walking 
only rough in places, and requiring only half an hour more 
than to return by the trail as the latter is taken up at union 
of the two streams, near footbridge. 

2. To summit of Wastach Pass, a mountain pass of aver- 
age roughness, giving a fine view into upper part of Valley 
of the Ten Peaks, the climb requiring one hour to summit 
and considerably less to return. This trip is not for the 
totally inexperienced climber. 

3. To lower part of Sentinel Pass, with view of Pinnacles; 
a rough trip through woods and rock slides ; very interesting 
for a strong walker, requiring from 1 to 2 hours, according 
to extent of trip taken. 

^'^ Giant Steps Falls, a beautiful cascade or succession of 
falls, remarkable for the peculiar formation of the rocks, 
though of no great height or grandeur, is in many respects 
unsurpassed for its size. They may be reached as follows: 
From the trail end near the moraine (if horses are taken, 
they should be sent down — 1% miles — to footbridge at junc- 
tion of the two streams) , near some table-like rocks covered 
with heaths and trees, or from any part of the upper valley, 
proceed northwestwards, crossing the low ridge and descend- 
ing to the fiats at base of the Mitre. Some large trees, ap- 
parently broken off by a strong wind made by a snow-slide 
from Mount Lefroy, are first passed. The meadows are 
crossed, or rather skirted on the right, and the stream fol- 
lowed as it changes from a sluggish, meandering brook, 
hemmed in by clay banks, to a rapid torrent, flowing over a 
bed of solid rock. On the right there is a most attractive 
open grove, with banks of heaths edging the almost level 

Page Twenty-four 




GIANT STEPS FALLS 



stone pavement. The water glides for one-eighth mile in 
sparkling ripples over the stone floor, ever falling against 
the left bank, and then forced back again by projecting 
points of rock. The peculiarly hard and homogeneous rock is 
polished by former glacial action, the striations and grooves 
of which are clearly apparent on every side. In the after- 
noon sun, on a bright day, the gliding waters seem like a 
stream of molten silver. Suddenly the torrent commences 
a succession of leaps and falls over immense rectangular 
blocks of stone, and a succession of truly remarkable views 
are to be obtained from the banks as the water descends these 
giant steps of solid rock. The falls are at their best on hot 
days and in afternoons when the glaciers are melting most 
rapidly. A swampy meadow, swept clean of trees by a snow- 
slide, is crossed and the stream followed (one-half mile) to 
junction of streams, where the trail is found. 

"^Wastach Pass (from Indian word meaning "beautiful" — 
8,338 feet) may be reached in one hour from upper part of 
valley. Lying south of Eiffel Peak, this pass gives an excel- 
lent view into the upper Valley of the Ten Peaks, and is a 
popular route to same. Cross the upper meadows by keeping 
near or on the forest-covered slopes of the moraine of the 
Horseshoe Glacier. Follow the last large stream on the south 
side of valley a short distance, then cross same and ascend 
any of the numerous gulches towards the pass. The country 
is open and attractive, beautified by flower-lined vales, and 
many small streams descend the horizontal ledges, making 
the clift's drip and glisten in the sunlight. As the lower part 
of the pass is approached the vegetation ceases, and the ascent 
is made over broken stones and rock-slides. " The last part 
of ascent, somewhat steep, should be made on left side of the 
pass, where goat trails facilitate the climbing. "^The view 
into the Valley of the Ten Peaks, including Mount Delta- 
form and four other peaks of the "VVenkchemna Range, is 
one of the wildest and most desolate in the mountains. 

* The Pinnacles or rock towers on north side of Pinnacle 
Mountain may be well seen from the lower part of the Sen- 
tinel Pass, lying between Pinnacle Mountain and Mount 

Page Twenty-five 



Temple. Though this kind of formation is common in the 
Rockies, no other similar towers have been discovered that 
surpass these in height and symmetry in any accessible part 
of the mountains. The entire mountain is more or less 
eroded into sharp ridges, steep precipices, and lofty pin- 
nacles. The largest rock tower is conspicuous from many 
parts of the valley, and is roughly estimated to be 300 feet 
high. 

(a) Easiest route is to cross stream on south side of val- 
ley, and, ascending a thickly forested slope, skirt a pile of 
massive rocks (bear-den moraines), at the base of Pinnacle 
Mountain till the open, grassy vale is reached at base of the 
Sentinel Pass. From an altitude of 7,500 feet, where the 
vegetation ceases to grow, there is a good view of the pin- 
nacles. Experienced mountaineers can ascend the slope to 
ridge, above the conspicuous rock-towers, somewhat to right. 
From base of this tower (8,200 feet) a very fine view is ob- 
tained, but caution is necessary, as even the largest stones are 
unstable and treacherous. 

(b) An alternative route is by ascending slopes above 
snow patch on west base of Pinnacle Mountain. This leads 
to ridge (8,500 feet), whence a fine view of the pinnacles is 
obtained from above. On account of loose stones, experienced 
climbers only should make this ascent. 

* Sentinel Pass, so called from the pinnacles, resembling 
sentinels, on Pinnacle Mountain, and very appropriate also 
from a small tower on the pass itself, which has a remarkable 
resemblance to a sentinel on guard, may be reached from 
Paradise Valley without much difficulty. From the summit 
(8,55^6 feet) there is * an excellent view of Mount Fay and 
the lower part of the Wenkchemna Range. The view into 
Paradise Valley is wild and awe-inspiring. 

At almost equidistant points on the circumference of a 
circle about three miles in diameter, the center being the 
Horseshoe Glacier in Paradise Valley, there are five passes: 
the Mitre (8,500 feet), Wastach (8,338 feet), Wenkchemna 
(8,521 feet), Opabin (8,450 feet), and Abbot (9,588 feet), 
connecting five different valleys. These passes, either singly 

Page Twenty-six 




NORTH SLOPE OF PINNACLE MOUNTAIN 



or in various combinations, may be used as routes for a con- 
siderable number of very interesting excursions. Camps, sta- 
tioned in one or more of the several valleys, are generally 
necessary if more than one of these passes is crossed in a 
single day. 

Lake Annette (named for wife of W. G. Astley, first man- 
ager of the chalet) , a small, clear lake at the base of Mount 
Temple, may be reached from the lower part of Paradise 
Valley. The branch trail to this lake is hard to locate, but 
may be discovered as follows : It is three-fourths of an hour's 
walk from junction of Paradise Valley trail with main trail, 
or half an hour's walk below Alpine Club camp grounds. 
The trail commences in an open slide, exactly opposite the 
north sky-line of Mount Temple cliffs, and this slide may be 
identified as the only one in the valley, which is covered by a 
uniform growth of young evergreens about 25 feet high, with 
virgin forest on either side. The trail commences in south 
corner of this slide, and, once the woods are entered, is fol- 
lowed with ease. The stream is crossed by a log bridge, from 
which the lake (250 feet above) is reached in eight min- 
utes. A recent snow-slide has thrown down many trees near 
the lake. Good view of cliffs of Mount Temple. 

* Mount Temple (11,626 feet, named for Sir Richard 
Temple by Dr. Dawson) may be climbed conveniently from 
Paradise Valley by the Sentinel Pass. The climb, which is 
long and arduous, presents no mountaineering difficulties. 
From pass a route is followed somewhat to right of the arete, 
which comes down to the pass. At about 11,000 feet the 
shoulder should be turned on the left and the south slope 
reached, whence the top is easily attained. If unaccompa- 
nied by guides (not advisable), the tops of couloirs and other 
significant points should be marked by piles of stones, as the 
route in descent may otherwise be entirely lost. *View from 
the summit is magnificent on a clear day, including the most 
easterly ranges of the Rockies to the Selkirks, and from the 
high peaks near the Athabasca Pass southward to Mount 
Assiniboine and the Kananaskis Pass. 



Page Twenty-seven 



* Mount Aberdeen (10,340 feet, named for Lord Aber- 
deen) may be easily ascended from upper part of Paradise 
Valley. The ascent is monotonous and tiring, over scree 
slopes and rock-slides throughout. From its central location 
the view is remarkably fine, especially of Mounts Victo- 
ria, Lefroy, Hungabee, and the peaks of the Wenkchemna 
Range. A cap of snow and glacier descends the north slope, 
and there is at times a pool of sapphire-blue water near the 
actual summit. 



Page Twenty-eight 



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PART III. 

VALLEY OF THE TEN PEAKS, MORAINE LAKE, AND 
CONSOLATION VALLEY. 



The Valley of the Ten Peaks, seven miles long, formerly 
called the Wenkchemna Valley, from the Indian word mean- 
ing "ten," is the second valley east of Lake Louise. Entering 
the Bow Valley at about 5,700 feet, in a flat and swampy 
tract, the grade is slight as far as Moraine Lake, which is the 
central point in location and interest, and then the valley 
floor rises rapidly and continuously up to its end in the high 
and barren Wenkchemna Pass (8,521 feet). Hemmed in 
by the very rugged Wenkchemna Range to the south, and 
Mounts Temple, Pinnacle, and Eiffel on the north, it is the 
wildest and, in many respects, the grandest of the five val- 
leys. A short but beautiful branch valley enters from the 
south near Moraine Lake, and with its two equisite lakes, a 
fine glacier, and Alpine peaks, is well worthy of a visit. The 
upper, barren part of the Valley of the Ten Peaks was dis- 
covered first, and from its forbidding nature was called Deso- 
lation Valley until the remarkable beauty of the lower part 
became known, whereupon the name was changed. The 
peaceful charm of the south branch suggested, in contrast, 
the name Consolation Valley before the latter change was 

made. 

For those who have only one day for this excursion, the 
following plan is recommended: From chalet to Moraine 
Lake (8 miles— 2% hours) on foot or horseback; luncheon 
at the lake, and either a short walk down the lake shore or a 
visit to Consolation Valley (35 minutes going; 1 hour round 
trip). An early start (8 to 9 o'clock) should be made, so 
as to take advantage of the cool part of the day and have 
plenty of time to enjoy the scenery upon arrival. Lunch- 
eons and horses should be arranged for the night before. It 

Page Twenty-nine 



should be remembered that it is much less tiring, both for the 
saddle-horses and their riders, if all level parts of the trail 
are availed of to make good time, as otherwise the trip will 
be prolonged to three hours or more. 

The trail starts in near east end of chalet, and, crossing 
outlet stream by a corduroy bridge, ascends rapidly till (6 
minutes) the trail divides, the left-hand branch being fol- 
lowed. (For details of trail, see page 21.) The turbulent 
Paradise stream is crossed by a log bridge (3 miles — 1 hour) . 
The trail now commences to ascend rather steeply, with short 
stretches of level grade. A small, clear stream, descending 
from a lake on the north side of Mount Temple, is passed in 
a deep ravine (1% hours). Ascending constantly through 
a sparse growth of larches and pines, the trail reaches the top 
of a ridge (1% hours — 6,650 feet altitude). There is now a 
short streteh amongst morainic ridges which form the clear- 
cut entrance to the valley, the trail turns to the right, begins 
to descend, and there is unfolded, quite suddenly — 

**A magnificent view of the entire lower Valley of the 
Ten Peaks, with Moraine Lake in the distance. The trail is 
high above the valley, in which the broad and sluggish 
stream is seen far below. The blue-green Moraine Lake, three 
miles distant, looks deceptively near, and beyond it the 
Wenkchemna Range and Consolation Valley are seen in a 
most impressive panorama. The trail, narrow and rocky, 
gradually slopes downward the entire distance to Moraine 
Lake, the interest being maintained throughout. The tim- 
ber in this part of the valley was unfortunately burned in 
1904, but a profusion of wild flowers, fireweed, painted cup, 
yarrow, and arnicas makes this place unrivaled for color in 
any part of the mountains from June to September. One 
slope is entirely covered with the cream-colored blossoms of 
the rather rare and interesting "erioganum." The view into 
Consolation Valley improves, and, at one mile from Moraine 
Lake, there is an excellent and striking view of the Tower 
of Babel and the perpendicular cliffs of Mount Babel, with 
its gendarmes and rock towers. The trail enters the green 
forest one-fourth mile from the lake, and descending, reaches 
the camping ground at north end of the lake. 

Page Thirty 




MORAINE LAKE 



Alternative route is by the new carriage road, completed 
nearly to valley entrance in summer of 1908. Inquiry 
should be made at chalet as to possibility of using road as 
far as made, and then by trail the last three miles. 

^^Moraine Lake (6,190 feet), a most beautiful sheet of 
water, named from the ancient moraine which forms the 
lake, is slightly over a mile in length, intensely blue or blue 
green in color, very clear, and fed by cold streams and 
underground springs, which may be seen bubbling up in 
many places under the water. The lake abounds in brook 
trout from 1 to 2 pounds in weight, but has been over-fished 
in late years. The lake is enclosed on the south side by the 
imposing cliffs of the Tower of Babel, Mount Babel, Mount 
Fay, and several ' others of the Wenkchemna Range. The 
west shore is a slope of green timber, in which may be seen 
still standing the tall spars of dead timber, relics of a pre- 
historic forest fire, which apparently visited this valley about 
75 years ago. The early morning reflections, which rarely 
last after 9 o'clock, are marvelous. The best view of the lake, 
which the visitor should not fail to see, is from the top of the 
moraine. Cross outlet stream 100 yards below old log- jam, 
where there is a footbridge. Ascendiag trail a few yards, 
turn to right and climb slope where it is easily accessible. 
This moraine, 80 feet above the lake, gives a magnificent 
view, far more impressive than from below, and when the 
lake is calm the impression is of looking into a sapphire bowl 
deep-set among rugged mountains. 

^Another view of the lake, quite different in character, is 
obtained by walking 10 minutes along trail which skirts the 
north shore of the lake. The first part is somewhat swampy, 
but in five minutes a small stream is crossed, and from here 
on the trail is dry and excellent, through a beautiful grove 
of young trees, for one-fourth mile, till another stream is 
reached and a gravel flat covered with willows. This is an 
excellent place to take luncheon. The lake here is broader, 
and through a deep gorge southwards the sharp, snowy crest 
of Mount Fay, unseen at other end of lake, looms grandly. 
From the vertical precipices on either side, crowned with 

Page Thirty-one 



walls of ice, waterfalls descend in slender silvery streams, and 
avalanches fall, on warm days, with some frequency. 

Consolation Valley, a typical Alpine valley of great beauty, 
may be hurriedly visited in 1 to 1% hours from Moraine 
Lake. The trail crosses the outlet stream about 100 yards 
below the lake, and, winding through the ridges of the 
moraine, crosses the rock slides beyond and commences to 
ascend the forested lower slopes of the Tower of Babel. After 
traversing the green forest for a short distance the noise of 
rushing water is heard, and the trail, bordered by wild 
flowers, approaches the roaring torrent that descends from 
Consolation Valley. Bending to the right, the stream is soon 
left behind as the trail, having gained the level of the valley 
opening, passes through a thin growth of young trees. On 
the right is the Tower of Babel, and glimpses of the snowy 
peaks at the valley end are enjoyed through the scattered 
spruces. The trail enters a strip of heavy forest and reaches 
an open meadow. The visitor should here turn to the left, 
to the banks of the broad, sluggish stream, where (35 min- 
utes) there is an — 

**Excellent vieiu of Consolation Valley, the forests and 
mountains being reflected in the quiet water. The whole 
scene is dominated by Mount Bident (10,109 feet), a ser- 
rated, glacier-clad peak of remarkable beauty. This view 
combines every element of grandeur and beauty character- 
istic of the Canadian Rockies — vertical cliffs and glaciers, 
forests, meadows, and a water surface, the reflections in which 
give an added interest to the surroundings. 

*The Consolation lakes, about one-half mile up the valley, 
may be reached by the trail which follows the west side of 
stream. The first lake is more than half a mile long, very 
deep and clear, and enclosed by rock-slides and forests. In 
this lake, as in the stream below, there is excellent fly fishing 
for brook trout averaging about one pound or less. At one 
point on the west shore a bank of perpetual snow may be 
used as a landing place for the fish, making an exceptionally 
rare combination. Unfortunately, these lakes are now being 
excessively fished by irresponsible parties, whose selfish in- 
terests will result in the termination of legitimate sport 

Page Thirty-two 



within a short time unless stringent game laws are enforced. 
Trail crosses and is now on east bank of lake. 

Separated about 75 yards by a rock-slide through which 
the water percolates, the upper lake is considerably smaller 
and rests against the snout of a glacier. By ascendiag the 
valley for a short distance and climbing the moraine, this 
glacier may be easily reached and traversed safely for a con- 
siderable distance. The glacier is unusually interesting, as 
the medial moraines are clearly marked, and there are sev- 
eral remarkable surface lakelets and other features deserving 
attention. 

The Tower of Babel (7,580 feet) may be ascended by way 
of the steep and grassy slopes near middle of the valley. In 
order to avoid heavy scrub and timber, the route should be 
studied out in detail before commencing the ascent. The 
top of the Tower of Babel is unusually flat, though the hori- 
zontal ledges have been split into deep and rather ominous- 
looking cracks by ages of exposure. *The view, especially of 
Moraine Lake, 1,400 feet below, is interesting and unusual. 
By following the ridge southwards, climbers of a little expe- 
rience may easily reach a point several hundred feet higher 
and get a good view of the towers and gendarmes on the east 
face of Mount Babel. The visitor is cautioned not to attempt 
the descent to Moraine Lake over the scree slopes on the west 
side of the Tower of Babel, as this is excessively dangerous on 
account of frequent rock-falls from the rapidly disintegrating 
gorges above. 

The pass at end of Consolation Valley (8,300 feet) may 
be used by fair climbers as a route to the very beautiful and 
interesting region round and near Boom Lake, where there 
is excellent fishing. For a prolonged sojourn, a camping 
outfit should be sent round by way of the Vermilion Pass. 

The WenkcheTnna Lake and upper Valley of the Ten 
Peaks may be reached over a fair trail from Moraine Lake 
in 1% to 2 hours. The trail skirts the north shore of the 
lake, crossing a stream from Larch Valley about half way 
down the lake, and then pursuing a rough but picturesque 
route along the forest-lined and rock-ledged banks to near 
end of lake (20 minutes), where the inlet stream bursts from 

Page Thirty-three 



its banks of willows and enters the lake. This stream is 
remarkable as being one of the few, if not the only, clear 
glacial stream in the mountains. The trail ascends through 
light timber and open swampy meadows in successive sharp 
pitches, about 2% miles, always to the right of and above 
the Wenkchemna Glacier, the moraines of which may be 
seen occasionally through the trees. At this point (50 min- 
utes from lake end) the forest opens out, and for nearly a 
mile the trail traverses a beautiful Alpine park, which, in 
late July and August, is a veritable garden of wild flowers 
unsurpassed in the mountains. Through open stretches the 
eye wanders over extensive fields of lilac-colored asters of 
vigorous growth, scarlet painted cups, white valerian, and 
yellow arnicas. Through the trees the cliffs and serrated 
peaks of the Wenkchemna Range rise superbly. Skirting 
the base of a snow-slide, covered with bent spruce-scrub and 
broken stones, the trail crosses a grove of larch trees, gradu- 
ally ascending to a high gulch or pass with patches of per- 
petual snow (where horses can proceed no farther), then 
descends about 100 feet to the small but remarkable — 

**Wenkche7nna Lake (about 7,500 feet), a mountain tarn 
entirely surrounded by broken masses of rock of great size. 
In this wild setting, only relieved on the north by a green 
slope and a few trees, the little lake nestles and peacefully 
reflects the stupendous mountains that surround it. The ice- 
cold and green water, clear as crystal, comes from melting 
snowbanks, which in several places border the lake shore all 
summer. The entire Wenkchemna Range, from Mount Fay 
to the Wenkchemna Pass, including the gigantic wedge- 
shaped Mount Deltaform, with its glacial couloir, is seen to 
the east and south. Apparently near, but about 3 miles dis- 
tant, is the Wenkchemna Pass, leading over into Prospectors 
Valley. The visitor is advised to follow north shore, crossing 
the rocks by which a smaller lake is cut off on the right, and 
then cross the immense masses of rock till the entire range 
can be seen reflected in the water. To the west is the great 
rock peak of Mount Himgabee, seen through a gap, and to 
the right, forming part of the valley boundary, are two un- 
named peaks, the most distant of which, with flat summit 

Page Thirty-four 



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and deeply eroded gullies, resembles an ancient ruin. Both 
this and the unnamed peak to the right are marvels of light 
and shade in the afternoon sun. Somewhat more to the right 
is the "Wastach Pass, an easy route into Paradise Valley, and 
to the north Eiffel Peak, here showing to great advantage, 
its vast slopes being crowned by a rounded mass of nearly 
vertical cliffs rent into several deep-cut needles. The lake, 
while not much more than one-fourth mile in diameter, is 
so surrounded by rough rocks that it requires nearly an hour 
to walk around it. The visitor can ascend the valley through 
open, treeless moors and over snow patches of increasing size 
to summit of Wenkchemna Pass (1 hour — 8,521 feet). This 
is part of the continental watershed, the valley to the west 
(Prospectors Valley) lying in British Columbia, and the 
water draining into the Pacific by the Vermilion River. 
Across the valley there is a long rock wall, culminating in 
the sharp-peaked Mount Biddle on the right. In the valley, 
nearly 1,000 feet below, a remarkable limestone tower is 
clearly seen. This pass may be used as a route to the glacier- 
bearing Opabin Pass, which leads to Lake O'Hara, as well 
as the ascent of Mounts Hungabee and Deltaform. 

The Wenkchemna Glacier, which occupies the southern 
part of this valley, lying against the foot of several of the Ten 
Peaks, has many remarkable features. Being of the pied- 
mont type, its breadth, 3 miles, is proportionally great for 
its length, which is only from one-half to one mile. A large 
part of its surface is completely buried in morainic debris, 
which serves as a protecting cover to the inert and sluggish 
mass of ice beneath. The clear and limpid glacial stream 
descending into Moraine Lake proves how little eroding ac- 
tion is going on under this extraordinary glacier. About 
2% miles above Moraine Lake the glacier is apparently ad- 
vancing, and the forest is being overridden and buried in 
the frontal moraines. (For fuller details, see "Glaciers of 
the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks," by Dr. WiUiam Hittell 
Sherzer.) 

Larch Valley and Sentinel Pass. — Larch Valley is a short 
but beautiful upland vale between the south slopes of Mount 
Temple and a long ridge which sweeps down in a graceful 

Page Thirty-five 



curve from the base of Eiffel Peak. It heads in the Sentinel 
Pass and a rocky amphitheater between Mount Pinnacle and 
Eiffel Peak. It contains three small lakes and commands 
fine views of the rugged mountains to the south, and is a 
beautiful place in itself, though involving a hard climb to 
reach. 

From Moraine Lake the ascent (800 feet) is most con- 
veniently made by following the old fire-guard, which is 
picked up about one-half mile from the lake on trail from 
chalet. From the larch groves in the upper Valley of the 
Ten Peaks the open ridge to the north is easily ascended, the 
climb here being, of course, much less than from Moraine 
Lake. 

From the nearly barren ridges above the highest lake the 
route by which Mount Temple is climbed is easily made out. 
Note a natural bridge in cliffs on side of Mount Temple, 
about 3,000 feet above the valley. From lake the ascent of 
Sentinel Pass is easily made in 30 to 40 minutes. The steep 
slopes should be climbed somewhat to right on Mount Tem- 
ple side, avoiding the apparently easier cliffs to the left. 

Eiffel Peak and the mountain west of the Wastach Pass 
may be ascended without difficulty and without g-uides from 
camps in upper part of the Valley of the Ten Peaks. 

Peak northeast of Mount Temple may be easily ascended 
from the ridge where the trail, entering the Valley of the 
Ten Peaks, makes a sharp turn to the right and Moraine 
Lake is first seen. Near the summit the east arete is made 
of a remarkable and rather xm usual slate formation. On and 
near the summit there is disclosed a very excellent — 

* View of the Wenkchemna Range and Consolation Val- 
ley and a broad outlook over the Bow and Pipestone Valleys. 

About 800 feet below, nestling in a secluded rocky vale, 
may be seen a blue lake about one-third of a mile long, with 
its end against the cliffs of Mount Temple. The descent 
may be varied by keeping somewhat more to the west and 
coming down on a small pool at base of east cliffs of Mount 
Temple, where a high waterfall descends upon a bank of 
snow. 

Page Thirty-six 



From high bench, a mile farther south on lower slopes of 
Mount Temple (reached by leaving Moraine Lake trail one 
mile north of lake and climbing the steep but open grassy 
slopes) , a magnificent view of Consolation Valley, the Tower 
of Babel^ and Mount Babel may be enjoyed. From this 
point the view is unsurpassed for a certain wild and imposing 
grandeur. Above the fire-swept zone there are scree slopes 
rising several hundred feet higher to the vertical cliffs of 
Mount Temple, where the ambitious climber may obtain 
more extensive and possibly more impressive views. 

The circuit of Moraine Lake is a trip recommended to 
those camping at or near the lake. Follow trail to end of 
lake and cross the inlet stream about one-fourth of a mile 
above its mouth. Traverse woods in direction of Mount Fay 
to the sharp-pointed end of lake, where a small, muddy 
stream enters. Cross the flats and skirt shore of lake north- 
wards, through thick scrub and timber (trying and diffi- 
cult), climbing to base of cliffs about 200 feet above. By 
following the now easy route along the ledges, inspiring and 
constantly varied views of cliff and lake scenery may be en- 
joyed. In one place there is a small cave where the roof 
overhangs a considerable distance. The ledge leads out to 
slides, the first of which should be crossed rapidly for fear 
of falling stones, the others being safe. 

None of the peaks of the Wenkchemna Range should be 
attempted without Swiss guides and a well-prepared camp- 
ing outfit. The guides stationed at the chalet will give all 
necessary information to those planning to climb any of 
these difficult but interesting Alpine peaks. Mount Delta- 
form is the most dangerous of this group, and has only been 
climbed once. Mount Hungabee, which, with Deltaform, 
are attacked by way of the Wenkchemna Pass, is similar in 
difficulty. These peaks, ranking with the most difficult of 
European mountains, should be attempted only by expert 
climbers, with a well-organized party of Swiss guides and 
under favorable weather conditions. 

To Moraine Lake, Wenkchemna Lake, and over the Was- 
tach Pass, thence by Paradise Valley to chalet (about 25 

Page Thirty-seven 



miles) is a magnificent walk, with no climbing difficulties, 
but is only recommended to strong walkers, as being some- 
what too long for the average ability. This trip might be 
made easier by taking saddle horses as far as Moraine Lake. 
It is a combination of several excursions described elsewhere, 
and gives a great variety of highly interesting scenery. 



Page Thirty-eight 




LAKE O'HARA AND MOUNT LEFROY 



PART IV. 

LAKE O'HARA REGION. 



Lake O'Hara and the upper part of Cataract Brook Valley 
are unexcelled by any part of the mountains in variety and 
beauty of scenery. Though somewhat less rugged than the 
Valley of the Ten Peaks, and less grand than Paradise Val- 
ley or Lake Louise, this region appeals more strongly to the 
artist and the camper. Meadows, forests, and lakes are here 
combined in pleasing variety in a broad valley surrounded 
by mountains of strong and impressive outlines. It is pos- 
sible to visit Lake O'Hara hurriedly in one day, but the vis- 
itor is strongly advised to spend at least one night in camp, 
so as to do at least partial justice to this very interesting 
region. 

The lake may be visited most conveniently by taking the 
train to Hector station, where horses and guides, previously 
arranged for, should be met. Hector may also be reached 
by direct trail from the chalet (on foot or horseback) in 
three hours. This trail commences north of the chalet, and, 
following the original road to Laggan a short way, branches 
off to the left and skirts the base of Mount Saint Piran and 
Popes Peak, coming out east of Sink Lake, and then follow- 
ing the railroad track to Hector. 

From Hector (5,190 feet) the trail ascends the east bank 
of Cataract Brook, a roaring torrent of clear water which 
enters Wapta Lake a few yards below. The scenery is bar- 
ren and desolate, but the attention is soon attracted by the 
canyon-like walls of the torrential stream. In a short quar- 
ter hour, after a steady ascent of 400 feet, the top of the ridge 
is reached, and the trail now keeps a nearly level grade for 
the next three miles. The valley is entered through burnt 
timber and muskegs, and the two Narao Lakes and the slug- 
gish stream are seen on the right (30 minutes). A grassy 

Page Thirty-nine 



meadow is reached (50 minutes), whence may be seen a part 
of Mount Victoria, glacier-crowned, on the left, the Wi waxy- 
Peaks, Mount Schaffer, and Mount Odaray, far up the val- 
ley, with Cathedral Mountain on the right. Shortly after 
this a gravel wash is crossed, where the trail must be followed 
with care, and on the other side of this the burnt timber is 
left behind (one hour) and the green timber entered. The 
scenery now rapidly improves, and, in fact, is an ascending 
climax all the way to Lake O'Hara. The trail crosses the 
clear, rushing stream, which affords a succession of delight- 
ful views for several miles, by a bridge (one hour and fifty 
minutes; 6,150 feet), and continues on west side of stream. 
The ascent is rapid up to some meadows near the base of the 
Wiwaxy Peaks, and at length (three hours) the first glimpse 
of the small lake near outlet of Lake O'Hara is caught, and 
in fi^e minutes more, after passing through a grove of 
spruces, the richly colored waters of Lake O'Hara appear 
directly ahead. 

^"^ Lake O'Hara (6,664 feet), claimed by some to be th& 
most beautiful lake in the world of its size, is an emerald- 
green sheet of water nearly a mile long, almost completely 
enclosed by forest-clad mountains. It was named after Col. 
R. O'Hara, one of the early visitors to this region. The stu- 
pendous cliffs of Mount Victoria and Mount Lefroy rise 
above it to the north and east, and the sharp peaks of Mounts 
Yukness, Hungabee, and Biddle make the views to the south 
even more interesting, while from the farther shores the 
circle is completed by Mounts Schaffer, Odaray, Stephen, 
Cathedral, and the Wiwaxy Peaks, making the total of high 
and interesting peaks visible from this small lake far greater 
than from most others of much larger size. The first oppor- 
tunity should be taken to walk along the south shore (on 
the right) nearly or quite to the end of the lake (30 min- 
utes round trip). A faint game trail indicates the way, 
which is comparatively easy. The visitor should also cross 
the outlet stream (felled trees) and walk a few hundred 
yards along the north shore, in order to get an excellent 
view of the Opabin Pass, with Mounts Hungabee and Biddle 
on either side. 

Page Forty 




LAKE O'HARA AND OPABIN PASS 



The following three excursions will give the best idea of 
the surrounding region: 

1. To top of clijfs below Opabin Pass, by way of meadows 
and upper lakes, returning by gulch on east side to Lake 
O'Hara (11/2 hours). 

2. To Lake Oesa by north shore, returning by south shore 
(2% hours). 

3. To Lake McArthur (3 miles; 2^4 hours round trip). 
1. The lower part of the Opabin Pass is well worthy of a 

visit, and the following route is the most interesting: Take 
the main trail, which turns west a few yards from the lake, 
and which, ascending a low ridge, leads down to a meadow 
(4 minutes) completely surrounded by forest. This beau- 
tiful place, whence the views of the mountains are most in- 
teresting, w^as Colonel O'Hara's favorite camping ground. 
The trail turns to the right, following a mossy stream, but 
the visitor will see an open meadow to the southeast in the 
direction of the Opabin Pass, following which and then cross- 
ing a narrow bit of forest he will soon arrive on the shore of 
a long, narrow lake (12 minutes) . This sheet of water, with 
its rocky forest-lined shores, while not comparable to Lake 
O'Hara, would in any other situation command unbounded 
admiration. The walking (along west shore) amongst the 
rocks and fallen trees is trying, but the end is reached in a 
short one-fourth hour. From this end of lake, where a 
rock-slide from Mount Schaffer is crossed, an easy rout€ is 
now observed up the grassy slopes, on right of the rounded 
dome of rock directly ahead. The top of bench (7,240 feet) 
is reached after 20 minutes of climbing. An extensive high 
valley, with ridges and ledges of shaly rocks, is now dis- 
closed, leading up to the snow-covered base of the Opabin 
(Indian word meaning "rocky") Pass. Some little time can 
be pleasantly spent wandering around amongst the attrac- 
tions of this delightful region. The cliff edge also should 
be approached, whence a very *fine vieto of the Wiwaxy 
Peaks and the lakes in the valley below may be enjoyed. 
The descent is made on the east side of the rounded dome, 
where a steep grass slope, east of a rock-slide and west of the 
stream, may be found. (Do not go too far to right.) This 

Page Forty-one 



stream divides some distance above the lake, and enters by 
two branches about 150 yards apart, 

2. *Lake Oesa may be visited (a very interesting excur- 
sion), by following the north shore of the lake, as a varia- 
tion of route, to near its end, where the steep shores and the 
open slopes above, suggest ascending so as to come out above 
the slides of immense rocks. A small, green lakelet (6,990 
feet), without apparent outlet, which, however, supplies the 
waterfall at end of Lake O'Hara, is reached (50 minutes). 
Above this, the stream becomes a boisterous torrent, hemmed 
in by rock-slides and wild gorges. The stream is crossed 
and followed closely on west bank, the scenery being most 
interesting and constantly varied. Leaving the stream for a 
short time, a scramble is made up an interesting rock-slide 
to right of cliffs, which appear to block the way. Above 
these (7,350 feet), an interesting vale of ledges is entered 
and easily ascended, passing a green pool on the left (1^ 
hours). The vegetation now almost totally disappears, the 
valley assumes a wild and desolate aspect, and in a short time 
the barren shores of Oesa (Indian word meaning "ice") 
Lake is reached (7,398 feet — 1% hours). This region is 
strongly marked by the striations and grooves of former 
glacial action. From this point the route to Abbot Pass may 
be clearly seen leading up to a deep cleft between Mounts 
Lefroy and Victoria. The return should be varied by de- 
scending the slopes luest of the waterfall at Lake O'Hara and 
following the west shore of same. 

3. *Lake McArthur is a remarkable lake, easily reached 
from Lake O'Hara in one hour. The trail near lake which 
leads to Colonel O'Hara's meadow should be followed. This 
is an old Indian trail, a relic of prehistoric days, when the 
Kootenay Indians used it as a route to reach and trade with 
the various tribes on the plains. It is hard to follow through 
the meadow, but with care it will be seen to lead west to a 
shallow gulch, and is well marked in the forest. Ascending 
steep pitches, the top of first bench is reached (20 minutes), 
and the first view of the pyramidal Mount Owen is seen 
to the west. The trail, becoming faint as it crosses open 
meadows, passes a small lake on the left. Cross these 

Page Forty-two 




LAKE McARTHUR AND MOUNT BIDDLE 



meadows towards a rocky gulch somewhat to the right, where 
there is a small stream. The trail is on the south or left of 
this. The summit of pass (7,110 feet) is reached (35 min- 
utes) and the valley opening, where Lake Mc Arthur is situ- 
ated, may be seen to the south between Mount Schaffer and 
Park Mountain, about three-fourths mile ahead. (Just be- 
fore reaching summit of pass there is a small meadow filled 
with great rocks. One particularly large boulder, with strata 
tilted up to the west and a loose slab on east side, should be 
passed on east side, turning to left.) The slopes are de- 
scended, attention being given to the route taken, but keep- 
ing in general somewhat to the left till the base of gulch is 
reached, where, ascending by a well-marked goat trail to top 
of a rocky bench, there is no further difficulty. The visitor 
should now mark his route by piles of stones on conspicuous 
points, so as to return by same gulch. Crossing the barren, 
rolling ridges of this high valley, the sapphire-blue waters 
of Lake McArthur are soon seen in the distance. 

*Lake McArthur (7,359 feet; named for J. J. McArthur, 
who discovered it) , one of the largest lakes at such high alti- 
tude in the mountains, Ues in a short Alpine valley between 
Mount Schaffer and Park Mountain, and is overhung on the 
southeast by Mount Biddle (10,876 feet). A large glacier 
descends from the latter peak and enters the lake. This lake 
is remarkable for the extreme coldness and clearness of the 
water and for its wonderful sapphire-blue color, having no 
trace of the blue-green characteristic of most Rocky Moun- 
tain lakes. Owing to its high altitude, it is covered with ice 
most of the year, and even in midsummer floating masses of 
ice drift over its surface. On the extreme right-hand corner 
there are some whirlpools where the lake seeks a subter- 
ranean outlet. Towards the left there are some interesting 
cliffs and rocks, whence the best view of the lake is obtained. 
Visitors should carefully examine the surrounding mountain 
slopes, especially the western slopes of Mount Schaffer, as this 
is a favorite haunt of the Rocky Mountain goat, and it is 
more than likely that some of these interesting animals may 
be seen. 



Page Forty-three 



LIST OF INTERESTING BOOKS AND PUBLICATIONS. 



"Among the Selkirk Glaciers." (In Chapter XVII is an 
interesting account of an early visit to Lake Louise.) W. S. 
Green. Macmillan & Co., London. 

"Climbs and Exploration in the Canadian Rockies." H. E. 
M. Stutfield and J. Norman Collie. Longmans, Green & 
Co., London. 

"The Canadian Alpine Journal." Published annually by 
the Alpine Club of Canada. 

"In the Heart of the Canadian Rockies." James Outram. 
The Macmillan Co., New York. 

"The Rockies of Canada." Walter Dwight Wilcox. G. P. 
Putnam's Sons, New York. 

SPECIAL SUBJECTS. 

"Alpine Flora of the Canadian Rocky Mountains." Stew- 
ardson Brown and Mrs. Charles Schaffer. G. P. Putnam's 
Sons, New York. 

"Mountain Wild Flowers of Canada." Julia W. Hen- 
shaw. William Briggs, Toronto. 

"Glaciers of the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks." Wil- 
liam Hittell Sherzer. Published by the Smithsonian Insti- 
tution. 

Attention is also called to the very interesting "Prelim- 
inary Report," by Dr. Dawson, and the exceedingly rare 
"Palliser Papers." A "Report on the Geological Structure of 
the Rocky Mountains," by R. G. McConnell, is of interest to 
geologists. Besides Appleton's Canadian Guide Book and 
Baedeker's Guide to Canada, there have been published in 
the last few years a great number of articles relating to this 
and other parts of the Canadian Rockies in the following 
magazines: Appalachia, the Alpine Journal, the Geograph- 
ical Journal, the National Geographic Magazine, the Journal 
of Geology, etc. 

Page Porty-Uve 



LIST OF BOOKS RELATING TO THE HISTORY OR EARLY EXPLO- 
RATION OP THE CANADIAN ROCKIES. 

'The Northwest Passage by Land." Viscount Milton and 
Dr. Cheadle. 

''Canada on the Pacific." Charles Horetzky. 

"Voyages." Sir Alexander Mackenzie. 

"Overland Journey Round the World." Sir George 
Simpson. 

"Saskatchewan and the Rocky Mountains." Earl of 
Southesk. 

"Ocean to Ocean." Rev. George M. Grant, 

"Adventures on the Columbia River." Ross Cox. 

Canadian Pacific Railway Reports. 



NOTES FOR WALKERS AND CLIMBERS. 



The exhilaration of the mountain air and the entire 
change of climate have a tendency to make visitors over- 
estimate their physical powers, especially in the first ex- 
cursions taken. Travelers of a sedentary life should be 
extremely careful not to attempt too much, and even those 
who have hardened their muscles by golf, tennis, and other 
outdoor sports must gradually accustom the heart and lungs 
to a rarefied air and an entirely new kind of exercise. By 
adopting the following ideas the best results will ensue: 

1st. The first few days should be devoted to walks along 
roads or trails that are comparatively level. If any small 
ascents are made they should be done leisurely. It is highly 
important to have a pair of comfortable, thick-soled shoes, 
well filled with hob-nails or Swiss Alpine nails. A pair of 
canvas or other leggins and an old suit are advisable. 

2nd. The secret of mountain climbing, thoroughly under- 
stood by the Swiss guides, is "festina lente" — making haste 
slowly. This is especially true during the first hour of a 
day's climb, when the heart is becoming accustomed to the 

Page Forty-six 



extra exertion in a rarefied atmosphere. More physical en- 
ergy may be destroyed by rushing along during the first half 
hour than in any two or three subsequent hours of the day's 
work. Remember that the chief object of any excursion is 
to enjoy the grandeur and beauty unfolded along the way. 
Nothing so plainly marks the tyro as record-breaking pro- 
clivities. 

3rd. In all big chmbs the exertion expended in descent is 
more tiring than in the ascent. The mountaineering diffi- 
culties also are more serious, as the footholds are less easily 
seen. Have the moral courage and good judgment to turn 
back in time to reach camp or hotel before nightfall, 

AN APPEAL EOR THE PRESERVATION" OE NATURAL BEAUTY. 

There is a strong movement on foot both in the United 
States and in Canada towards the preservation of natural 
scenery. Those who have had the rare pleasure of being a 
first visitor to any of these beautiful lakes of the Canadian 
Rockies and seen nature in her primitive glory may thor- 
oughly appreciate the destructive effect of the ordinary camp. 
Trees are ruthlessly cut down or destroyed by camp fires, 
branches are hacked off for fire-wood or bedding, the bark 
is blazed from trees and replaced by a multitude of names of 
those seeking a misguided notoriety, while the green carpet 
of grass and beautiful Alpine flowers is changed into a waste 
of empty cans and broken glass. Unfortunately such rude 
transformations almost invariably occur at the most attrac- 
tive point of view, making a strong contrast between nature's 
sublimity and man's heedlessness. 

It would be a most excellent thing if, through the efforts 
of the officials of the Rocky Mountains Park of Canada, sup- 
plemented by an aroused public sentiment, working through 
clubs organized for the purpose, a rational system of camp 
supervision were decided upon and rules enforced by 
mounted forest rangers. Every forest-lined lake or stream; 
every lonely mountain tarn or Alpine meadow — in fact, all 
places in any part of the world where beauty and grandeur 
is preeminent over utihty — are a portion of the natural her- 

Page Forty-seven 



itage and inalienable rights of all the people. Any one who 
destroys this beauty and takes away some of the pleasure 
that belongs to those who come after is, in a sense, a robber 
and a malefactor, no less than if he should cut down the 
shade trees and ruin the gardens of a private home. It must 
be remembered, however, that the effectiveness of this effort 
to preserve natural beauty depends, in its final working out, 
upon the individual visitor, who, unfortunately, is often 
overwhelmed with the limitlessness of the forests and the 
grandeur of nature and is led, moreover, to admire and over- 
estimate the apparent knowledge and experience of his 
guides, little realizing that in many cases these selfsame 
guides may be spending their first season in the mountains, 
having little or no appreciation of that beauty which they 
are so ready to destroy. 



A FEW CAMP DON TS. 

Don't place your camp on the borders of lakes or streams 
or in any fine scenic viewpoint. 

Don't cut down and mutilate trees. Don't write your 
name at the expense of the bark and often the life of a noble 
tree. 

Don't build a camp-fire in mossy ground or heavy brush. 

When breaking camp, don't fail to pour on water until 
the last spark, deep down in the ground, is extinguished. 

Don't let your camp resemble a rubbish pile. Burn up 
papers and refuse and hide all empty cans in a deep part of 
the forest, leaving your camp-ground as near like what you 
found it as possible. 

Don't be a record-breaker in killing game or fish. Sen- 
timent has changed in recent years, and many an alleged 
sportsman degenerates into a "game-hog" when he takes 
more life than is reasonable or necessary. 



Page Forty-eight 



NOTES ON WEATHER. 

A little knowledge of weather conditions will often save 
valuable days or prevent disastrous results in mountain- 
climbing. Those who understand the weather in any part 
of our continent will soon notice the similarity of changes 
in the Canadian Rockies, affected only in a slight degree by 
the mountains themselves. 

The cyclonic whirls, from 500 to 1,000 miles in diameter, 
move in from the Pacific at fairly regular intervals through- 
out the year. Upon their intensity and rate of motion de- 
pend the amount of rain or snow that falls and the duration 
of each storm. The approach of one of these storms is almost 
invariably indicated at least 24 hours in advance by the 
feathery cirrus clouds, which first appear on the western 
horizon and cross the sky rapidly, gradually becoming 
thicker and forming a hazy veil over part, or all, of the sky. 
The wind shifts to south or southwest, and cumulus clouds 
begin to form, moving in the same direction. If the wind 
is very strong and hot, the storm usually breaks in a series of 
local thunder-storms, sometimes followed by general rains. 
If the wind is less strong, or from the east, and the tempera- 
ture is low, the storm begins in a gentle, steady shower and 
lasts from two to three days or more. The passage of the 
center of the storm is marked by a rising barometer, the 
clouds lifting somewhat, the temperature dropping, while 
new snow falls upon the mountains or even in the valleys. 
It often rains or snows, however, many hours after the 
barometer begins to rise. In general, the more rapid the 
approach of a storm and the heavier the rainfall, the more 
rapid is the clearing. West or northwesterly winds are an 
almost certain indication of clearing. Cold, frosty nights 
are a sign of continued fair weather. In mid-summer, even 
during the finest weather, the valleys are often filled with 
heavy fog in the early morning, and many excursions 
are missed from apprehension of an approaching storm. 
Such fogs may be distinguished by the fact that they entirely 
cover the valley to its lowest parts, while the air is cold and 

Page Porty-nine 



69 


66 


60 


50 


74 


57 


65 


51 


53 


43 


55 


44 


46 


39 


41 


31 


42 


32 


78 


56 



there is no actual fall of mist or rain. At about 9 or 10 
o'clock these fogs begin to rise and melt away in the sun, 
showing a perfectly clear sky above. 

The following average weekly thermometer records were 
taken by the author at Lake Louise in the summer of 1894 : 

7-9 A. M. 1-2 P.M. 7-9 p. M. 

July 25-31, inclusive 49 59 51 

August 1-7, inclusive 53 

August 8-15, inclusive 49 

August 16-22, inclusive 56 

August 23-29, inclusive 50 

August 30-September 5, inclusive 42 

September 6-12, inclusive 41 

September 13-19, inclusive 37 

September 20-26, inclusive 31 

September 27-October 3, inclusive 33 

Hottest day, August 19 57 

Coldest day, August 28 35 41 40 

NOTES ON PROVISIONS, ETC., FOR A CAMPING TRIP. 

One of the most difficult things about outfitting a camping 
trip, whether it lasts a few days or several months, is to know 
the quantity and quality of the provisions. On a short trip 
this is relatively unimportant, but for anything over a week 
or ten days a careful study should be made of the "grub- 
pile." In general, the camper-out in the Canadian Rockies 
is exposed to constant low temperatures, except at midday, 
and, moreover, he is naturally taking an abnormal amount 
of exercise. For these reasons the heat-producing foods — fat 
pork, bacon, chocolate, and sweets — and the energy-producing 
foods, such as beans and bacon, should form a large part of 
the commissariat. Fresh meats and vegetables being out of 
the question, a supply of dried fruits (apricots, apples, 
prunes, and peaches) and desiccated vegetables is absolutely 
necessary. From my own experience the following table is 
approximately correct. Weights are given in pounds and 
decimals. In order to find required quantity, multiply to- 
gether the number of individuals in the party, the number 
of days, and the given decimals : 

Page Fifty 



Absolute Necessaries on Long Trips. Advisable. 

Bacon 1-00 Cocoa.... 03 

Flour 1(^0 Cornmeal J^ 

Baking powder 05 Eice.... 

c.„i^ ... .05 Hardtack 1" 



Salt. 



.05 

20 



Onions ^0 



Sugar ^" v^.i.<.-o 

rj,g° , 04 Preserves and jam 

Coffee" ...... 08 Pickles. 

;Dp„ns 20 Sweet chocolate. 

Dried 'fruit! .'.".'!! ! 07 Self-rising flour and syrup. 

On short trips many of these items may be left out and 
their places taken by fresh bread, canned meats, sardmes, 
eggs, butter, and potatoes. _ -ex. 

One of the most important items in camp cookmg is tresh 
bread made with baking powder and locally called "ban- 
nock " Only about one in ten of all the camp cooks has the 
faintest conception of making a light and appetizing ban- 
nock. The following directions will give excellent results: 
Measure out twenty parts (twenty tablespoonfuls, for in- 
stance) of flour, one of baking powder, and one-half of one 
of salt, and mix thoroughly and intimately m a bowl. Make 
a depression in the flour and add cold water, stn^mg the 
flour in from the sides till nearly all the flour is mixed and 
the dough, though light and spongy, is moderately firm. 
Stir or knead as little as possible. Take two frying pans, 
well greased with bacon fat or else well sprinkled with dry 
flour, and make a thin loaf covering entire bottom of pan, 
from' one-half to three-quarters of an inch thick. Heat over 
a bright, clear camp fire, so as to cook a bottom crust without 
burning; then stand the skillet up on chips to keep off the 
ashes by means of willow branches run through hole m han- 
dle so that the upper surface is exposed to intense radiation 
from a clear fire. The loaves should rise and brown rapidly 
and be turned frequently, so as to be thoroughly cooked m 
20 minutes. By improvising an oven from an old cracker 
box and placing hot cinders below and above, the Hghtest 
soda biscuits may be cooked in a few moments. By adding 
lard or bacon fat, bannocks can be made Hghter. By add- 
ing more water the latter can be used for maldng pancakes, 

Page Fifty-one 



which should be cooked in very clean pans over a small, hot 
fire. The batter should not stand, but be mixed as used. 
Self-rising buckwheat flour mixed with a little water can be 
rapidly converted into pancakes which are delicious with 
maple syrup. 

Camp fires for cooking should be as small as possible, and 
only very dry wood used, as the heat and smoke are trying at 
best. 

Owing to the altitude, everything cooked by boiling re- 
quires two or three times as long to cook as in other parts of 
the country. This is especially true of onions, beans, etc. 
Coffee, and even tea, may be boiled a short time, as boiling 
only corresponds to a gentle simmering at sea-level. Coffee 
should be carried in sealed cans, and used in a proportion of 
not less than one cup of ground coffee to five of water. 

Nothing is more delicious than fresh trout, especially if 
well cooked. Thoroughly clean the fish, sprinkle salt and 
pepper, and roll in corn meal. Fill the frying-pan with 
fish, placed on their backs if freshly caught — otherwise they 
will curl out of the heat — and use a cupful of bacon fat or 
lard to cook with. Place a tin plate over the fish and cook 
Tapidly, changing the level of frying-pan so that the hot 
grease reaches every part uniformly. If possible, cook one 
aide through before turning the fish, so as not to break them 
up. In twenty minutes they should be thoroughly cooked, 
the outside showing a rich golden brown color. 

A single grouse may be made to do for several men by 
making a "slumguUion," by cutting in small pieces and 
stemng in water to which is added flour, onions or potatoes, 
and seasoning. 

The chief requisites in good camp fare is a clear, brisk fire 
and a little care and attention to details. It should be borne 
in mind that camp cooking, however it may appear at first, 
is really the cleanest in the world, the only kind we could 
watch and afterwards enjoy. The only extraneous matter 
that falls into camp dishes is ash and cinders from a clean, 
wood fire. 

Experience in folding blankets will save many a sleepless 
night. Lay a canvas cover or some horse blankets over the 

Page Fifty-two 



spruce or balsam bed. Blankets should be laid so that the 
lower part may be folded under at least 25 inches. The sides 
are then folded under in like manner or pinned with safety- 
pins so as to make a kind of sleeping-bag. Other blankets 
are folded under in like manner in successive layers, so that 
there is no opening where the cold air may enter. If sleep 
is not otherwise possible, draw top of blanket over the head, 
leaving only the nose outside. This is equal to an extra 
blanket in warmth-giving value. 



Page Fifty-three 



INDEX. 



Abbot Pass, 10, 11, 12, 26, 42. 

Abbot, Philip S., 11. 

Alpine Club of Canada camp, 22. 

Astley, W. J., 15. 

Bannock, How to cook, 51. 

Beebive, Tbe, 8, 13. 

Ascent of, 16. 
Blankets, How to fold, 52. 
Books on Canadian Rockies, 45. 
Boom Lake, 33. 
Bow River, 6. 
Camp fires, 52. 
Cataract Brook, 39. 
Cathedral Mountain, 40. 
Chalet, Lake Louise, 6. 
Cliffs at Lake Louise, 9. 
Consolation Lakes, 32. 
Consolation Valley, 29, 32. 
Death Trap, 12. 
Desolation Valley, 29. 
Devil's Thumb, 16. 
Edwards, Dr., 7. 
Eiffel Peak, 23, 35, 36. 
Fairview Mountain, 8, 19. 
Fishing in Boom Lake, 33. 
Consolation Lakes, 32. 
Moraine Lake, 31. 
Giant Steps Falls, 23, 24. 
Goats, Rocky Mountain, 18, 43. 
Green, Dr., 7. 
Hector Lake, 15. 
Grouse, How to cook, 52. 
Hector, Sir James, 5. 
Hector Station, 39. 
Horseshoe Glacier, 25, 26. 
How to climb mountains, 46. 
Kicking Horse Pass, 6. 
Knox, Agnes, 14. 
Kootenay Indians, 42. 
Laggan, 5. 
Lake Agnes, 12, 14. 
Annette, 19, 27. 
Louise, 7. 
McArthur, 43. 
Oesa, 42. 
O'Hara, 39, 40. 
Larch Valley, 33, 35. 
Lefroy Glacier, 11. 
Little Beehive, 14. 
Lyalls Larch, 13. 
Marmot, 18. 
McArthur, J. J., 43. 
Mirror Lake, 12, 13. 
Mitre Pass, 11, 26. 
Moraine Lake, 31. 
Circuit of, 37. 
Mount Aberdeen, 13, 28. 



Mount Babel, 30. 
Bident, 32. 
Biddle, 35, 43. 
Deltaform, 34, 37. 
Fairview, 8, 19. 
Fay, 26, 31. 
Hector, 15. 

Hungabee, 23, 34, 37. 
Molar, 15. 
Niblock, 8. 
Odaray, 40. 
Owen, 42. 
Temple, 18, 27. 
Schafeer, 40. 
St. Piran, 8, 15. 
Sheol, 19. 
Victoria, 7, 11. 
Whyte, 8. 
Yukness, 40. 
Narao Lakes, 39. 

Notes for walkers and climbers, 46. 
O'Hara, Col. R., 40, 41, 42. 
Opabin Pass, 26, 41. 
Pancakes, How to cook, 51. 
Paradise Valley, 18, 21. 
Park Mountain, 43. 
Pinnacle Mountain, 19, 23. 
Pinnacles, The, 25. 
Pipestone Valley, 15. 
Preservation of natural beauty, 47. 
Provisions for a camping party, 50. 
Saddleback, The, 17. 
Saddle Mountain, 19. 
Sawback Range, 13. 
Sentinel Pass, 26, 35. 
Sherzer, Dr., 11, 35. 
Siffleurs, 18. 

Temperatures at Lake Louise, 50. 
Temple, Sir Richard, 27. 
Trail to Lake O'Hara, 40. 
Moraine Lake, 30. 
Paradise Valley, 18, 21. 
Saddleback, 18. 
Upper lakes, 12. 
Trout, How to cook, 52. 
Tower of Babel, 30, 31, 33. 
Valley of the Ten Peaks, 29. 
Victoria Glacier, 10. 
Wapta Lake, 39. 
Wastach Pass, 25, 26. 
"Weather, Notes on, 49. 
Wenkchemna Glacier, 34, 35. 
Lake, 33, 34. 
Pass, 26. 
Valley, 29. 
Wilson, T. E., 7. 
Wiwaxy Peaks, 40, 41. 



Page Fifty-four 



Wapta. L. 




LE N '09 



